Redken Laboratories Inc.

Roger A Mathews

David W Cannell

Edward R Moore

Hayel M Said

Leroy D Hunter

Nghi V Nguyen

Keratin fiber condition is evaluated by testing dry hair to determine analysis factors. For each factor, two values of elongation are determined by measuring the force required to obtain a first value and a second value of elongation of the fiber. The percent total elongation of the fiber to its break point is also determined. The ratio of the two measured forces is used with the percent total elongation in empirically derived nonlinear equations to determine analysis factors, such as a condition factor and a moisture factor. It is found that each factor is independent of fiber diameter or the source of the fiber. It is also found that the factors change as a function of subjective or objective measures of chemical damage to, and moisture content of, the hair fiber. The factors can, therefore, be used for identifying hair care products suitable for application to the hair without inducing unacceptable damage. The tests may be performed with simple tensile testing apparatus without tedious examination of the hair under a microscope. Additionally, the hair diameter can be determined by wedging fiber clamps used in the test apparatus.

Assessment of damage in keratin fibers

A process for the permanent waving of hair in which hair wound on a mandrel is exposed to the action of a reactive waving solution containing at least one reducing agent capable of cystine cleavage to achieve cystine cleavage and the step of applying an oxidizing agent to the hair to reform the cystine bonds, is improved by contacting the hair for from about 5 to 15 minutes with the reactive waving solution to achieve a substantially-maximum cystine bond cleavage; blotting the hair to remove the reactive waving solution; and contacting the hair with a protein flow solution for a period of time sufficient to induce protein flow in the hair to achieve a desired curl configuration prior to application of the oxidizing agent to reestablish the cystine bonds to fix the curl. The protein flow solution is an aqueous protein flow solution having a pH of from about 2 to about 10. The protein flow solution is preferably an aqueous solution of at least one protein flow agent which is a polyvalent metal ion, a water-soluble hydroxyorganic compound containing up to about 4 carbon atoms, and at least one hydroxyl group or mixtures thereof.

Hair-waving process

The condition of hair or other keratin fibers can be evaluated by measuring the force required to obtain a first value of elongation of the fiber in the yield region of the force-elongation curve, and the force required to obtain a second value of elongation of the fiber in the yield region. The ratio of these two measured forces is then determined as a damage index for the fiber. It is found that a constant force ratio is obtained for wet virgin keratin fiber independent of fiber diameter or the source of the fiber. It is also found that the force ratio changes as a function of subjective or objective measures of chemical damage to the hair fiber. The force ratio or damage index can, therefore, be used for identifying hair care products suitable for application to the hair without inducing unacceptable damage. The tests may be performed with simple tensile testing apparatus without tedious examination of the hair under a microscope.

An aqueous permanent wave solution employing one or more compounds for cleaving keratin interprotein disulfide bonds is enhanced by including a biocompatible 1,3-alkyldiol. Preferably from two to seven percent by weight of 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol or 1,3-butanediol is employed. Such compositions provide a useful neutral permanent wave solution employing ammonium thioglycolate, the first permanent wave solution with a pH in the same acidic range as the isolectric point of hair, or a five minute permanent wave with either an acid or alkaline solution.

Permanent wave solution

This hair waving composition has a self-limiting reaction so that reduction of sulfhydryl bonds and reduction of cystine is effectively discontinued after an interval, for minimizing potential for damage to hair when making a permanent wave. The self-limiting effect is obtained by using a composition containing both the ammonium and monoethanolamine salts of a suitable mercaptan, preferably thioglycolic acid. In a composition having a pH in the range of 9 to 9.5 the ratio of ammonium thioglycolate to monoethanolamine thioglycolate is in the range of from 2:1 to 8:1. Preferably the total concentration of ammonium thioglycolate plus monoethanolamine thioglycolate is in the of from 3% to 12% by weight. Such a composition may also include from 1% to 10% by weight surfactant, up to 1.5% by weight sequestrant for metal ions, and conditioners, colors, fragrances and the like.

Permanent wave composition

A scalp treatment for reducing average daily hair loss periodically applies to the scalp a composition containing an active chelating agent sufficient to chelate at least 0.3 milligrams of divalent calcium ion per milliliter of the composition and leaving the chelating agent in contact with the scalp for at least eight hours. Particularly preferred chelating agents comprise ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid, citric acid, and soluble salts thereof.

Scalp treatment

Hair and skin treating compositions containing hydrolyzed proteins having an average molecular weight in the range of from 500 to 2,000 are enhanced with an approximately equimolar quantity of amino acid derived zwitterion having a molecular weight less than 200, such as taurine. Preferably the taurine is present in such a composition in the range of from 1 to 5% by weight, and the composition has a pH in the range of from 3 to 10, the most preferably from 3 to 7.

Hair treatment composition

The ability of a hair styling material to enhance the holding power of a curl is determined by a comparison with the holding power of hair set only with water. A tress of hair is wetted and wrapped around a cylinder and held in place until dried. A similar curled tress is treated with a hair styling material. Each of the tresses is compressed across a diameter and the force and deflection are measured. The work of deformation of the treated loop of hair is compared with the work of deformation of the water treated loop of hair by finding the ratio between the two works of deformation. This ratio is a 'hold factor' for the hair styling material.

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Newbury Park, CA, United States of America

Roger A Mathews