Wella Aktiengesellschaft

Dieter Schonert

Anette Schmidt-Hoerr

Gunther Lang

Uwe Lenz

Thomas Clausen

Michael Franzke

Gerhard Maresch

Beate Dannecker

Jurgen Schmenger

Dieter Hoch

Wolfgang Keil

Gernot Mecks

Wilfried K Kalbacher

Johann Markl

Process to simultaneously color and permanently restructure hair, wherein The process is intended to enable better, faster, and gentler coloring of human hair, particularly natural hair, than was previously possible, as well as to maintain the color intensity of colored hair or to refresh (renew) it, and to improve the hair shine while simultaneously restructuring the hair.

Process to color and permanently restructure hair

The method for simultaneously dyeing and permanent shaping of hair includes winding hair strands onto curlers; mixing a dye component (B) containing 1 to 10 percent by weight of one or more dye compound and an amount of a keratin-reducing substance with a shaping component (A) containing from 6 to 15% by weight of the keratin-reducing substance in a weight ratio of from about 1:1 to 1:10 to form a dyeing and shaping composition, which necessarily contains from 5 to 18% by weight of the keratin-reducing substance; then allowing the hair with the dyeing and shaping composition to act on the hair for an acting time sufficient for permanent shaping; after that, allowing a fixing composition to act on the hair for 1 to 40 minutes and then subsequently rinsing the hair. The dye component (B) contains 4,5-diaminopyrazole derivatives and certain aminophenol derivatives.

Method for simultaneously dyeing and permanent shaping of hair

The method for simultaneously dyeing and permanent shaping of hair includes dividing the hair into strands an winding the strands onto curlers: mixing a hair shaping component (A) containing from 6 to 15 percent by weight of a keratin-reducing substance with a dye component (B) to form a dyeing and shaping composition prior to application on the hair; treating the hair with the dyeing and shaping composition and then allowing it to act on the hair for an acting time sufficient for the permanent shaping; after that, treating the hair with a fixing composition; allowing the fixing composition to act on the hair from 1 to 40 minutes and then subsequently rinsing the hair. The dye component (B) contains at least one oxidative coupler compound and at least one oxidative dyestuff selected from a group consisting of certain 4,5-diamino-pyrazole derivatives and certain aminophenol derivatives.

The permanent shaping method avoids overcurling of hair tips. Prior to performing the permanent shaping of the hair, the hair tips are protected by wrapping the hair tips with an impregnated foil and then performing the permanent shaping of the hair. The foil is an impregnated hair-tip paper that has been treated with an aqueous preparation that provides superior permanent shaping results. This aqueous preparation contains water, from 20 to 70 percent by weight of at least one lipophilic substance; from 1 to 25 percent by weight of at least one emulsifier and from 0.5 to 15 percent by weight of at least one organic acid. An impregnated foil made from silk or rice paper is also described.

Foil for wrapping hair ends

Methods of permanent shaping and volumizing hair that are gentle and prevent overcurling are described. In one method using curlers to curl the hair, an alkaline permanent shaping composition having a pH of 7.6 to 11 and including a hair keratin-reducing substance is applied to the hair and allowed to act on the hair for 5 to 30 minutes at room temperature or for 2 to 20 minutes at an elevated temperature. Then the hair is optionally rinsed with water and subsequently with an acidic aqueous intermediate rinse, which has a pH of 2 to 6.5 and includes an aliphatic organic acid. Next the hair is wound onto curlers, after which the hair is allowed to rest for 30 minutes at room temperature or 20 minutes at an elevated temperature. After the resting period the hair is treated with an oxidant-based fixative, which can be a solution of hydrogen peroxide, and the curlers are removed. The hair is subsequently rinsed with water or washed with a shampoo to remove the fixative and combed into a hair style. For methods of uncurling hair the method is similar, but the step of winding on curlers is replaced by a step of combing the hair out and the acidic aqueous intermediate treating agent is in the form of a gel, cream or paste.

Hair shaping method using acidic aqueous intermediate rinse to prevent overcurling

The aqueous hair fixing composition contains 0.1 to 30 percent by weight of at least one thickener, e.g. acrylic acid polymer; 0.1 to 25 percent by weight of a film-forming polymer ingredient which consists of vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymer, acrylic acid/acrylamide copolymer and/or methyl vinyl ether/maleic anhydride copolymer and 45 to 99.8 percent by weight water. This aqueous hair fixing composition necessarily contains no organic solvents, no cationic surfactants and no cationic polymers and a physiologically acceptable acid or base is added to it to adjust its pH so that the film-forming polymer ingredient is at least partially precipitated.

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Reinheim-Georgenhausen, Germany

Dieter Schonert